Cape Town and beyond (South Africa, Nov 2007)

Because of constant bad publicity about the crime rate and security in South Africa, we had avoided going there up until now. However, after reading recently that of the 18 million tourists who visit South Africa annually, only 400,000 are mugged, we decided that the risk in visiting the country was bearable (and this proved to be the case). There were many tourists in the country when we were there (the high season starts on 01/11). Most of these were from the Netherlands, UK, Germany or Belgium. We saw no Americans, but we were told that Australians are increasingly visiting. Surprisingly for a country with a black government, settlers from European countries are encouraged, and the UK alone provided 20,000 new residents in the last year. These settlers are mostly retired folk, and one of the results is an active development scene throughout the province we were in, and establishment of western style shopping malls. Property prices have also risen.

South Africa is about the 27th. largest economy in the world (comparable to Ireland and Denmark), but because its population is 50 million, on a per capita basis it ranks about 55th. (comparable to Malaysia). Whites control about 80% of the economy, so they live in most comfortable circumstances (many fine homes, luxury cars, and high quality restaurants). Some coloureds have done well, but only a sprinkling of blacks has done so, despite Government policies. Blacks live in shanty towns on the outskirts of every city and town, mostly use public transport, and eat at home. Some new houses have been built in these shanty towns. Because of the proximity of the shanty towns to highways, it is not advisable to stop on these highways whilst driving near those shanty towns.

Cape Town is an old city, dating from 1652, when the Dutch East India Company founded it. Its CBD is unremarkable - Melburnians would be very comfortable in this city, as on many street intersections there are double storey buildings, with wrought iron balustrades on the upper floors. These were hotels, dating from the time Cape Town was called the “Tavern of the Seven Seas”. Most of the smaller business premises date from Victorian times, and there are a few modern tall buildings. An area around the docks has been made into a precinct like Fishermen’s Wharf in San Francisco – with trendy restaurants and shops designed to appeal to tourists. There are a few very modern shopping malls in the suburbs.

The weather in Cape Town would be familiar to Melburnians (not surprising given that Cape Town is at 34 degrees south latitude, Melbourne is at 37). “Four Seasons in a day” is a phrase I heard there from time to time. A violent wind can arise suddenly, dropping the temperature by 10 degrees C. in a few minutes. This wind is called the “Cape Doctor”, because its violence supposedly drives away miasmas.

A self catering unit is the way to stay in Cape Town, and at least one of the old inner suburbs (De Waterkant) is, in great part, given over to this form of accommodation. We stayed in this suburb (which reminded me of Carlton, in Melbourne), booking our accommodation on the internet before we left Singapore. SABookOnline was an efficient site, providing virtual pictures of the accommodation under their control. We stayed in a two storied terrace house (2 BRs, 2 bathrooms). The apartment was cleaned daily, and at about AUD1100 per week, it was not expensive. As it is not safe to walk in and near the CBD at night, we were confined to dining within De Waterkant. Each block within the suburb has one or two security men on a 24 x 7 basis, and it was comfortable to walk each night to dinner. There were 7 restaurants in the suburb, so we ate at a different one on each of the seven nights we were there. We found the quality of the beef and lamb at least as good as that in Australia. Meals were not expensive anywhere in the country, and the most we ever paid for a meal was SGD60 (equivalent), and this included wine or beer. As neither of us is an oenophile, we cannot comment authoritatively on the quality of the wine, but it tasted good to me.

The highlight of Cape Town was the journey south from the city along the peninsula which ends in the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point (both within walking distance of each other). This is where the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans meet (there is a difference of about 10 degrees C. in the temperature of the water of these two oceans. Thus most Capetonians swim on the warmer Indian Ocean side of the peninsula) By the time we went there we had a car, and a different Cape Town is seen in its suburbs. There are many magnificent homes along the beaches, which are wide and white. Trendy restaurants, hotels, and modern shops line the roads. Cape Point is subject to constant gale force winds, and thus the air here is so pure that the World Meteorological Service has one of its only 20 stations worldwide where chemical intrusions into the atmosphere are studied. I had not previously felt winds as strong as those here – it was like pushing into a brick wall. Even Charles Dickens, who visited here in 1860, commented that he was almost blown off his horse during his visit.

A second highlight was Table Mountain. Although it has recently been reported that there have been muggings at the rate of one a day (on average) on the mountain, these take place on the walking trails up the mountain, and in remote parts of the plateau. We went up by cable car, and walked around near the upper cable station, along with masses of other tourists.

We used a rental car from the last days in Cape Town onwards. Driving in the city (and on the roads we used outside it) is no problem. Petrol is as expensive as it is in Singapore. Our journey took us 600 kms. east of Cape Town, and back again, using roughly the same route. Once Cape Town is left, security is no problem. In all of the towns we stayed in, it was possible to walk to (and later stagger from) restaurants anywhere in these towns, at night. Even so, there were parts of the CBDs in these towns where only blacks shopped, and no whites were seen. We first stopped at the Winelands, an area near Cape Town given over to winegrowing since the late 17th. Century. Beautiful old towns with Dutch Cape architecture, and providing fine dining. We visited two famous vineyards – Boschendahl and Vergelegen – established in the late 17th. century. Both have formal wine tasting rooms, equipped with benches and chairs, water jugs, and spittoons. Cost of a tasting ranges from SGD50 cents to about SGD 2. I bought one bottle of wine, but foolishly left it in my hand carry. Consequently it was confiscated at Johannesburg airport on departure, and I had to buy a replacement bottle in the Duty Free store there. Of the towns in the Winelands, Stellenbosch and Franschoek are the most attractive. We stayed at the former.

From the Winelands, we drove east to the famous “Garden Route”, which runs along the coast for around 300 kms. To get to the coast we drove through a number of sleepy inland villages with English names – e.g. Montagu, Robertson, and Riversdale. These date from the early 19th. century, when the British first came. All are the centres for surrounding wine growing areas. During this drive, we stopped at a complex of caves – the Cango Caves - similar to Jenolan. This inland area is called the Karoo, and from it to the coast, a descent via one of the many spectacular passes is required. When we arrived at the coast, we found it spectacular. Similar to the Great Ocean Road in parts, similar to the Sunshine Coast road between Coolum and Noosa in other parts – but the Australian ocean is a pale copy of the South African ocean. Wild surf breaking with constant plumes of spray against forbidding cliffs is a feature of the drive. At one city on the route there is a museum with a replica of the vessel used by Bartholomeu Diaz in 1487, when he discovered and rounded the Cape of Good Hope. Given the size of his vessel, his feat was amazing (since then, several hundred ships, including some large ones, have been wrecked along this coast).There are of course protected bays as well, with magnificent wide and white sandy beaches. The towns are essentially resorts, with many modern homes with beautiful views. Whale watching is a pastime along the length of this coast. These were mostly locked up when we were there, as they are owned by inland whites, who visit them only for holidays. We stayed at a couple of these resort towns – Mossel Bay and Knysna (pron. Neeze-na). No problems in just turning up and asking for accommodation (though this would not be the case in holiday times). Being resort towns on the sea, the restaurants provided great prawns, fish and oysters (both farmed and wild). I didn’t find any fish which I really enjoyed, though I thought that the oysters and prawns were top quality.

Near the eastern extremity of the Garden route is what is billed as the world’s highest bungee jump – at the Bloukrans River bridge, where the platform is 218 metres from the ground. The most easterly stop we made was at Storms River Mouth. This comprises a number of chalets, and a café, all clinging to rocks at the base of high cliffs. Constantly lashed by high seas and spray, this resort was quite spectacular (and in fact, was well occupied the day we were there).

Our journey east finished at that point, and we returned to Cape Town, for Singapore. In all, an interesting holiday in spectacular and beautiful areas.

The rest of the South Africa pictures can be found here.